![]() NGK's for my built engine it is going forward. Haven't heard shit from them since, guess us old Buick guys don't mean squat. It’s pretty much a street car, but it sees the track quite often. I am also interested in what gap you might want to see on a plug in these heads. I’m not afraid to change plugs for one or the other. I normally run 20lbs of boost on the street, 24 at the track. It’s also the only time I had this combo at the track, it was a no prep day and it was really shitty air, like 2750 air……. That was back in January of this year and I’ve not tracked it since. I haven’t had this combo on the dyno yet, it only has 1500 miles on it and then, well, COVID……… Best pass on this new combo is 10.36 at 127on 22 lbs of boost. I’m told I will go high 9’s with a real driver. ' RE: Form submission from: More Info 14 MB Someone from there asked me a few more specific questions and I immediately answered. Final Verdict: After analyzing this Brisk Evo Spark Plugs review, we can determine that these are high-quality spark plugs. I sent them an e mail with all my specifics asking which of their plugs might work best. Brisk spark plugs are specially designed to offer good results and an adequate cost and are adaptable to the economy of many users. When it comes to Brisk,14 is hot,12 is colder,and 10 is the coldest. The brisk DR12S is their equivalent to the NGK BCR8ES Because it has less resistance,it will produce a colder spark because the secondary voltage put out by the coil will be less because of the lower resistance.Ĭopper is a good conductor of heat,but silver is better so it has a greater ability to take heat away from the electrode. I've experienced this with the BCR8ES plugs,so I know that it is relatively cold.Ĭopper is a good conductor of electricity,but the silver used in the brisk's electrode is better,meaning less resistance. To clean the deposits you simply run to the next stoplight at WOT which creates enough heat to clean the electrode and you will notice a very smooth idle when you get to the next light. ![]() The reason for this is because the electrode becomes so cold that it doesn't burn enough deposits off of itself so the ignition starts to misfire. If you cruise around the streets with a cold plug,you will notice that the idle will become erratic with some stumbling at a stop light. You don't have a heat problem while cruising around on the street. Now the only time you need a plug that can keep the electrode cold is at WOT. ![]() If we allow the electrode to become too hot,the air fuel mixture will ignite prematurely (pre ignition) and that is not good. When we talk about a cold plug,we are talking about its ability to remove heat from the electrode. It's quite cold,but I often thought it would be nice if a colder version was available to try,but it was the only version they offered. Until I discovered these DR10S,DR12S,and DR14S plugs,The only plug available that met all of the criteria (Gasket plug,Relatively cold,Non projected tip,Resistor,and Cut back ground strap) was the NGK BCR8ES.
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